How and Why Do Waves Break? | OMBE
How and Why Do Waves Break? | OMBE
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Learn to read a breaking wave 🔽 ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Being able to read a breaking wave is an essential skill for any surfer, as it plays a crucial role in determining the success and enjoyment of each ride: ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ 1️⃣ The Impact Zone - the place where all the force of the breaking wave hits the flat water. Stay clear of the impact zone while surfing or paddling out. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ 2️⃣ The Lip - the top or crest of the wave. It’s the part that rises up, then throws out and over. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ 3️⃣ The Pocket/ Cu
0:10
Learn to read a breaking wave 🔽 ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Being able to read a breaking wave is an essential skill for any surfer, as it plays a crucial role in determining the success and enjoyment of each ride: ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ 1️⃣ The Impact Zone - the place where all the force of the breaking wave hits the flat water. Stay clear of the impact zone while surfing or paddling out. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ 2️⃣ The Lip - the top or crest of the wave. It’s the part that rises up, then throws out and over. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ 3️⃣ The Pocket/ Cu
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How to identify each part of the wave. Watching a breaking wave is one of the most captivating visions for a surfer. A surfer needs to learn and understand each part of a breaking wave and what each energy zone is best for specific maneuvers or speed generation. The pocket/curl This is where the wave stands vertically and breaks forward. It is the steepest part of the wave and also where a surfer can generate the most speed. The Face/Wall This is the standing wall part of the wave but not breaki
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